Chart for cutting garments.



T..'LA MAIDA.

CHART FOR CUTTING GARMENTS.

' 1 APPLICATION FILED-M1231, i912.

' K mm Patented m 22, 19 13.

2 SHEETS SHBET 1.

awm

THOMAS LA MAIDA, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

CHART FOB CUTTING GABMEN'IS.

Specification of Letters latent.

Patented July 22,1913.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, THoMAs LA MAIDA, a subject of the Province ofSalerno, Italy, residing at- New York city, in the county of New Yorkand State of New York, have invented new and useful Improvements inCharts for Cutting Garments, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to a chart designed to serve as a guide incutting skirt patterns, and has for its object to render the art ofcutting skirt patterns so plain and simple that any person unacquaintedwith pattern cutting may, by conforming to the directions, preparepatterns for skirts of any style and size.

With this object in view the device consists of a sheet of suitablematerial on which are outlined several separate diagrams for asmany'diclferent kinds of skirts such as the narrow style, the wide orfull style, the cir enlar style, etc. Onea'ch diagram are lines ofperforations and scales of measurements following said lines, by meansof which perforations and scales certain fundamental guide marks may bemade on the material from which the pattern is to be cut, and by meansof which guide marks the remaining outlines of the pattern may be laidout.

In the accompanying drawing, Figure 1 is a viewio f the chart complete;Fig. 2 is a diagrammatic View illustrating the use of the chart; Fig. 3is a view of a sheet of paper or other material with a complete pat terndrawn thereon'jFig. l is a view of the pattern cut out.

In the drawings, A indicates a chart which may be of card board or othermaterial, on one side of- Which are printed or otherwise applied the"diagrams which serve as guides for laying off the patterns, three ofthese diagrams being shown and are lettered B, C and l) for narrow, wideand circular skirts respectively. Each diagram comprises a straight linea marked Front as this line coincides with the front of the skirt, andfrom each end thereof extends indefinitely two. substantially parallelcurved lines I) and 6 about six inches apart, the former being the waistline. antlthe latter the hip line. To prevent confusion bet-ween theselines, they are marked in an appropriate manner as by the letter lV forthe waist line and the letter H for the hi 1 line. On the line b is ascaled reading rom the straight line a" and divided into inches andquarter inches.

A perforation e is made through the chart A on the line at each inchgraduation, and continued to the line a for a purpose to be describedhereinafter. A similar scale f divides the line a and perforations gsimilarly disposed as the perforations e are made throughthe chart.Perforations l1. spaced apart also follow the line a from endto end. Touse the chart the following measure 'ments of the person to be fittedare first taken. From the waist line down as far as I desired in front,at the side and at the back.

to get the necessary length; then measure around the waist and hips asusual. The width around the bottom will depend on the particular styleof skirt desired, whether narrow, full or medium, plain br plaited. Withthese measurements known, let it be assumed that a pattern for a narrowskirt is desired. The chart A is placed on a sulficiently large sheet ofsuitable material E which may be paper, with the line a of the diagram Bor Form No. 1, near one long edge as shown in Fig. 2. Then with chalk,crayon, pencil or other material mark through perforations h, e, g on tothe sheet E the full length of line a and from said line along waist andhip lines Z1, 0 for a distance measured by the scale equal to onehalfthe waist and hip measurements in the manner indicated on Fig. 3.Foninstance, if the waist measures 26 and the hip measures 40 inches,stop at the perforations numbered 13 and 20 on the respective lines.Then remove the chart and with the chalk or other marking material drawlines 2', 7c and.Z.

through the three rows of dots made on the sheet I), as in said Fig. 3.\Vith a straightedge continue the line i indefinitely at z" and markoll' thereon the length of the skirt in front as given by the measurepreviously taken, if the length be 38 inches make a mark or 38 inchesfrom the waist line is. Next, draw from the point m a line a at a rightangle to the line a" and extending backwardly indefinitely under thewaist and hip lines, on which line 12, make a mark 0 distant from theline 2" equal to one-half the circumference of the skirt around thebottom. Ifthis measurement be inches the mark 0 will be 30 inches fromthe line 2". Now from the point 0 draw a straight'line 7) through theextreme end of the hip line 1 and continue it as far as the waist lineis. The pattern being thus outlined, it only remains to be cut out andpresent the appearance shown in Fig. 4C. In this style of skirt the linepmay not touch the waist line it as in Fig. 3.

the waist line. A pattern cut by this particular diagram can be usedonly for .a narrow, plaited or plain skirt, the width of said pattern atthe bottom being not less than three-fourths of the hip measure. For eX-ample, if the hip measure be 40 inches, the

I width of the pattern at thebottom should bottom should be aboutone-fourth greater than the hip measure, so that a pattern for a personmeasuring 40 inches around the hips would require a pattern about 40 orinches wide at the bottom. Diagram D of Form No. 3 is to be used if awider skirt than that of diagram O is to be desired, such as a circularskirt Without darts at the waist line and having full width at thebottom.

To cut a pattern by this diagram proceed as heretofore described, themarking through the perforations of the front line and the waist and hiplines from a distance thereon equal to one-half the measurements of thewaist and hip. Then remove the chart, mark waist, hip and front lines asbefore and draw the line 2". Then mark on the pattern sheet the frontand side lengths and draw a line shaped to these measurements for thebottom of the pattern. If a plait be desirr l in the same allow forsame. Before laying out the pattern observe closely the figure of theperson for whom the pattern is designed, and hear in mind the fact thatevery person is built differently. For this reason additional lines 1-,s, and twith suitable perforations have been placed on the front of eachdiagram above the waist line to makc allowance for the difference infigures. These lines are spaced about a half inch apart at the frontline a curving to the rear, and gradually merge into the waist line. Fora person with a large or protruding abdomen, one of the lines 7', s, t,is to be This fullness, however, may be taken up by making darts in thegoods at followed in marking out the pattern, lowering the same amountat the back but make no change at the side.

What I claim is,-

1. A pattern chaft for cutting skirt patterns comprising a sheet ofsuitable mate? rial having on one side a diagram formed of two curvedsubstantially parallel lines spaced apart and connected each atone endby a straight line, each of said curved lines having thereon a singlescale of like'measurements, beginning at said straight line andcontinuing throughout its length said sheet having spaced perforationsfollowing said curved lines and the straight line through which marksmay be made for the foundation lines of a pat-tern, and a num-- ber ofother curved lines and perforations on said sheet running from anextension of said straight line and equally spaced thereon to differentpoints onthe waistline, whereby v on one of said first-named curvedlines the waist measure and on the other the hip measure of the personfor whom the pattern is being cut will be lald ofl".

2. A pattern chart comprising a sheet of suitable material havingapplied on one side a plurality of diagrammatic figures, each figurecomprising a straight line and a curved line extending laterallyfrom-each end of a straight line, the two curved lines of eachdiagrammatic figure differing in direction and curvature fromcorresponding lines of the other figures, said curved lines connected toeach straight line being substautially parallel and each having a singlescale of like measurements extending from the straight line, said sheethaving spaced perforations following the straight lines and the curvedlines whereby guide marks for laying ott' patterns can be made throughsaid perforations, and a number of curved lines and perforations thereonrunning from an extension of each of said straight lines and equallyspaced thereon to different points on each waist line.

THOMAS LA MAIDA. Signed in the presence of- GABRIEL ARAMANno, TnvmeLIGHT.

